• Drafting the one-piece convertible collar

    The one-piece transformable collar is a technical solution capable of behaving like two while remaining a single structure. Closed, it reads as a shirt collar; open, it creates lapels and works as a tailored collar.

    In this post, the full drafting process is developed step by step: from neckline measurement and collar stand construction to the definition of the break line and the development of the collar fall. It also explains when this type of collar is most effective, both in very fine fabrics and in thick materials.

  • Ease and grading of the casual jacket

    Ease controls how a casual jacket behaves. This post breaks down how ease is distributed across the block using chest-based proportions and how it defines four fit levels: slim, regular, wide and very wide.
    It introduces technical ease as a structural value derived from proportional drafting and explains how it changes with size. You will also find full calculation tables from size 42 to 64 and the grading ratios required to scale the pattern while preserving its construction logic.

  • Casual jackets – classification and patternmaking logic

    The casual jacket is built from a base pattern that defines its behavior. The relationship between body and drafting allows proportions, lines and ease to be established, determining how the garment adapts, moves or regulates itself.

    From this common base, multiple jacket types can be developed—from technical to more structured ones—while maintaining a consistent patternmaking logic.

  • Casual jacket block

    Construction of the jacket base pattern through a structured system that connects body measurements, proportions and drafting geometry. It covers required measurements, their deduction from chest measurement, and full pattern organization: construction lines, pieces, seams and grainlines. It also includes the logic of the armhole rectangle and sleeve rectangle as the foundation of the system. A reproducible method to develop any jacket with technical precision.

  • The Bucket Hat

    The bucket hat is a soft-crowned hat with a downward sloping brim that surrounds the head. In this article we analyse its origin, its geometric structure and the complete pattern-making system used to draft the hat from real head measurements.

  • The Beret

    The beret is a traditional headwear whose structure can be described through a very simple geometry: the relationship between an outer volume and an inner opening that determines its fit on the head. From this idea a parametric construction system is developed based on head circumference, the cranial ovality index and the relationship between the top plate, the brim width and the inner opening. This system makes it possible to generate beret patterns adaptable to different sizes, cranial proportions and design variations.

  • The Baseball Cap

    Technical and geometric analysis of the baseball cap pattern: structural terminology, proportional crown height system, mathematical panel construction, precise visor calculation and scalable sizing. A structured approach combining pattern making and geometric coherence.

  • Two-piece tracksuit trousers pattern

    Two-piece sweatpants pattern built from the same measurements and ease as the one-piece version, but with a different leg construction.
    The grainline placement on front and back pieces allows a clearer definition of the lower leg areas and separates the side seams.
    A widely used base for casual trousers, sportswear, bermudas and shorts.

  • Tear-away pants

    Tear-away pants are a transformation of one-piece sweatpants featuring full lateral openings with snap fasteners. Used in sports, medical contexts and stage performances, they allow fast removal without taking off footwear. This post explains their construction logic and practical limits from a pattern-making perspective.

  • One-piece tracksuit trousers pattern

    This article explains the one-piece tracksuit trouser pattern, a simple and loosely structured construction used for casual, sports and functional garments. It outlines its main characteristics, typical fabrics and waist positioning.
    The text details the measurements required for drafting, focusing on hip width and seat rise, and explains how all other dimensions are derived. Differences in proportions and drafting logic compared to more tailored trousers are clearly described.
    Special attention is given to horizontal and vertical ease, their relationship and their influence on the rise, crotch and leg opening. The article also clarifies grainline placement and explains why this pattern is suitable for both male and female morphologies.