• Drafting the one-piece convertible collar

    The one-piece transformable collar is a technical solution capable of behaving like two while remaining a single structure. Closed, it reads as a shirt collar; open, it creates lapels and works as a tailored collar.

    In this post, the full drafting process is developed step by step: from neckline measurement and collar stand construction to the definition of the break line and the development of the collar fall. It also explains when this type of collar is most effective, both in very fine fabrics and in thick materials.

  • Ease and grading of the casual jacket

    Ease controls how a casual jacket behaves. This post breaks down how ease is distributed across the block using chest-based proportions and how it defines four fit levels: slim, regular, wide and very wide.
    It introduces technical ease as a structural value derived from proportional drafting and explains how it changes with size. You will also find full calculation tables from size 42 to 64 and the grading ratios required to scale the pattern while preserving its construction logic.

  • Cutting Methods: The Great Deception

    Originally published on May 10, 2013 Cutting Methods:The Great Deception Everyone who visits this blog has heard of — and probably studied — one or more cutting methods. Each claims to be the one and only true way. A quick search…

  • The Academy of Ignorance 2

    Originally published on March 4, 2013 The Academy of Ignorance 2 “More light!” J.W.Goethe, March 22, 1832 Introduction If anyone was surprised by the previous post (The Academy of Ignorance 1) or thought the story was exaggerated, today I will share…