• Drafting the one-piece convertible collar

    The one-piece transformable collar is a technical solution capable of behaving like two while remaining a single structure. Closed, it reads as a shirt collar; open, it creates lapels and works as a tailored collar.

    In this post, the full drafting process is developed step by step: from neckline measurement and collar stand construction to the definition of the break line and the development of the collar fall. It also explains when this type of collar is most effective, both in very fine fabrics and in thick materials.

  • Ease and grading of the casual jacket

    Ease controls how a casual jacket behaves. This post breaks down how ease is distributed across the block using chest-based proportions and how it defines four fit levels: slim, regular, wide and very wide.
    It introduces technical ease as a structural value derived from proportional drafting and explains how it changes with size. You will also find full calculation tables from size 42 to 64 and the grading ratios required to scale the pattern while preserving its construction logic.

  • Casual jackets – classification and patternmaking logic

    The casual jacket is built from a base pattern that defines its behavior. The relationship between body and drafting allows proportions, lines and ease to be established, determining how the garment adapts, moves or regulates itself.

    From this common base, multiple jacket types can be developed—from technical to more structured ones—while maintaining a consistent patternmaking logic.

  • The Beret

    The beret is a traditional headwear whose structure can be described through a very simple geometry: the relationship between an outer volume and an inner opening that determines its fit on the head. From this idea a parametric construction system is developed based on head circumference, the cranial ovality index and the relationship between the top plate, the brim width and the inner opening. This system makes it possible to generate beret patterns adaptable to different sizes, cranial proportions and design variations.

  • Transforming the straight tailored skirt block into a natural-flare skirt

    A natural-flare skirt is created by closing the darts in a tailored skirt block, transforming their volume into a gentle opening at the hem. The result is a fluid, balanced silhouette that remains clean and structured. It’s an easy, elegant transformation suitable for everyday skirts, formal garments and even bridal designs.