• Drafting the one-piece convertible collar

    The one-piece transformable collar is a technical solution capable of behaving like two while remaining a single structure. Closed, it reads as a shirt collar; open, it creates lapels and works as a tailored collar.

    In this post, the full drafting process is developed step by step: from neckline measurement and collar stand construction to the definition of the break line and the development of the collar fall. It also explains when this type of collar is most effective, both in very fine fabrics and in thick materials.

  • Ease and grading of the casual jacket

    Ease controls how a casual jacket behaves. This post breaks down how ease is distributed across the block using chest-based proportions and how it defines four fit levels: slim, regular, wide and very wide.
    It introduces technical ease as a structural value derived from proportional drafting and explains how it changes with size. You will also find full calculation tables from size 42 to 64 and the grading ratios required to scale the pattern while preserving its construction logic.

  • Casual jackets – classification and patternmaking logic

    The casual jacket is built from a base pattern that defines its behavior. The relationship between body and drafting allows proportions, lines and ease to be established, determining how the garment adapts, moves or regulates itself.

    From this common base, multiple jacket types can be developed—from technical to more structured ones—while maintaining a consistent patternmaking logic.

  • Casual jacket block

    Construction of the jacket base pattern through a structured system that connects body measurements, proportions and drafting geometry. It covers required measurements, their deduction from chest measurement, and full pattern organization: construction lines, pieces, seams and grainlines. It also includes the logic of the armhole rectangle and sleeve rectangle as the foundation of the system. A reproducible method to develop any jacket with technical precision.