Transforming the straight tailored skirt block into a natural-flare skirt

Transforming a straight tailored skirt block into a natural-flare skirt is a classic patternmaking technique. Although it seems simple, understanding how it works opens many creative possibilities. The idea is to achieve a soft, balanced flare without adding extra panels or relying on dramatic cuts. The volume of the darts is redirected toward the hem, creating a gentle opening while keeping the clean, tailored look.

What is a natural-flare skirt?

A natural-flare skirt is one in which the flare comes directly from the pattern. To achieve it, both front and back darts are completely closed, and this action automatically generates an opening at the hem. The result is a fluid skirt with moderate movement, preserving the structured silhouette of a tailored design while adding a more relaxed drape.

Starting point: the skirt block

The transformation is carried out directly on the tailored skirt block. There is no need to draft a new pattern from scratch. As the darts are closed, the hem begins to open naturally. Keep in mind that the longer the skirt, the greater the resulting flare, since the opening expands with length.

Applications and common uses

This transformation is extremely versatile: it works beautifully for everyday skirts, office outfits, formal wear and even bridal garments that require a gentle, elegant flare. Because the construction does not involve extra pieces, it is also quick and pleasant to sew.

The video includes the step-by-step demonstration and all the small details needed to achieve a balanced result; here you are only reading the general explanation.