This article discusses which body is the most suitable reference for technical patternmaking studies and why the male body morphology has traditionally been used as a starting point. It introduces the main morphological differences between male and female bodies and their impact on proportions and pattern construction. The topic is developed in depth in the video included on the page.
Transformation of the straight skirt base pattern using godets.
The article explains how to define circular sectors, calculate hem development and control skirt flare without altering waist and hip fit, with a complete practical example.
A natural-flare skirt is created by closing the darts in a tailored skirt block, transforming their volume into a gentle opening at the hem. The result is a fluid, balanced silhouette that remains clean and structured. It’s an easy, elegant transformation suitable for everyday skirts, formal garments and even bridal designs.
A clear and accessible introduction to the grading process of the straight tailored skirt. Learn how to interpret a measurement chart and how patterns change depending on male or female morphology. The full video demonstrates the method step by step.
Geometric pattern making relies on simple shapes —circles, triangles, rectangles— to build garments with mathematical precision and a clear method.
In this article, learn how to calculate and draw a circle skirt using the gardener’s compass, from formulas and proportions to practical drafting.
Perfect for fashion students and professionals who value precision and method.
Originally published on March 4, 2013 The Academy of Ignorance 2 “More light!” J.W.Goethe, March 22, 1832 Introduction If anyone was surprised by the previous post (The Academy of Ignorance 1) or thought the story was exaggerated, today I will share…
