The casual jacket is built from a base pattern that defines its behavior. The relationship between body and drafting allows proportions, lines and ease to be established, determining how the garment adapts, moves or regulates itself.
From this common base, multiple jacket types can be developed—from technical to more structured ones—while maintaining a consistent patternmaking logic.
Construction of the jacket base pattern through a structured system that connects body measurements, proportions and drafting geometry. It covers required measurements, their deduction from chest measurement, and full pattern organization: construction lines, pieces, seams and grainlines. It also includes the logic of the armhole rectangle and sleeve rectangle as the foundation of the system. A reproducible method to develop any jacket with technical precision.
The bucket hat is a soft-crowned hat with a downward sloping brim that surrounds the head. In this article we analyse its origin, its geometric structure and the complete pattern-making system used to draft the hat from real head measurements.
The beret is a traditional headwear whose structure can be described through a very simple geometry: the relationship between an outer volume and an inner opening that determines its fit on the head. From this idea a parametric construction system is developed based on head circumference, the cranial ovality index and the relationship between the top plate, the brim width and the inner opening. This system makes it possible to generate beret patterns adaptable to different sizes, cranial proportions and design variations.
Technical and geometric analysis of the baseball cap pattern: structural terminology, proportional crown height system, mathematical panel construction, precise visor calculation and scalable sizing. A structured approach combining pattern making and geometric coherence.
Two-piece sweatpants pattern built from the same measurements and ease as the one-piece version, but with a different leg construction.
The grainline placement on front and back pieces allows a clearer definition of the lower leg areas and separates the side seams.
A widely used base for casual trousers, sportswear, bermudas and shorts.
Tear-away pants are a transformation of one-piece sweatpants featuring full lateral openings with snap fasteners. Used in sports, medical contexts and stage performances, they allow fast removal without taking off footwear. This post explains their construction logic and practical limits from a pattern-making perspective.
This article explains the one-piece tracksuit trouser pattern, a simple and loosely structured construction used for casual, sports and functional garments. It outlines its main characteristics, typical fabrics and waist positioning.
The text details the measurements required for drafting, focusing on hip width and seat rise, and explains how all other dimensions are derived. Differences in proportions and drafting logic compared to more tailored trousers are clearly described.
Special attention is given to horizontal and vertical ease, their relationship and their influence on the rise, crotch and leg opening. The article also clarifies grainline placement and explains why this pattern is suitable for both male and female morphologies.
This article discusses which body is the most suitable reference for technical patternmaking studies and why the male body morphology has traditionally been used as a starting point. It introduces the main morphological differences between male and female bodies and their impact on proportions and pattern construction. The topic is developed in depth in the video included on the page.
Transformation of the straight skirt base pattern using godets.
The article explains how to define circular sectors, calculate hem development and control skirt flare without altering waist and hip fit, with a complete practical example.
