Transformation of the straight skirt base pattern using godets.
The article explains how to define circular sectors, calculate hem development and control skirt flare without altering waist and hip fit, with a complete practical example.
A natural-flare skirt is created by closing the darts in a tailored skirt block, transforming their volume into a gentle opening at the hem. The result is a fluid, balanced silhouette that remains clean and structured. It’s an easy, elegant transformation suitable for everyday skirts, formal garments and even bridal designs.
A clear and accessible introduction to the grading process of the straight tailored skirt. Learn how to interpret a measurement chart and how patterns change depending on male or female morphology. The full video demonstrates the method step by step.
Learn the complete logic behind the straight tailored skirt, one of the essential patterns in geometric patternmaking. This guide explains the required measurements, the structural principles of the draft, and the differences between male and female morphology, illustrated with a hybrid figure created specifically for this project. It includes a detailed drafting video, professional tips, and recommended tools for both workshop and digital patternmaking.
Geometric pattern making relies on simple shapes —circles, triangles, rectangles— to build garments with mathematical precision and a clear method.
In this article, learn how to calculate and draw a circle skirt using the gardener’s compass, from formulas and proportions to practical drafting.
Perfect for fashion students and professionals who value precision and method.
Fashion no longer dresses bodies —it organizes desires.
This TeleVirtualPatronage manifesto denounces the shift from craft to spectacle, from tailoring to algorithms, from body to number.
Bobo, the god-logo, mirrors the system’s sickness.
ailoring is the future: sustainable, exclusive and made to measure. Unlike industrial fashion that pollutes and standardizes, the tailor offers technique, personal adjustment and close connection with the client. Each garment is born unique, waste-free, with its own identity. What is most ancient now appears as the true new
A pattern maker doesn’t judge: they measure and adapt. This article explores how pattern making translates the body into proportions and structures, showing eight possible morphologies from the crossing of internal and external structures. A technical act that is also respect for body diversity
Living index of the “Grading” series: (01) Basic concepts, (02) Ratios, (03) Non-graded parts. A single post updated with each video
Equality does not mean uniformity. This post examines the morphological differences between male and female bodies and their impact on pattern making
