{"id":3515,"date":"2025-11-19T19:59:36","date_gmt":"2025-11-19T18:59:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/?p=3515"},"modified":"2025-12-06T12:07:18","modified_gmt":"2025-12-06T11:07:18","slug":"base-pattern-of-the-straight-tailored-skirt","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/en\/base-pattern-of-the-straight-tailored-skirt\/","title":{"rendered":"Base Pattern of the Straight Tailored Skirt"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"512\" height=\"512\" src=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/logo512.png\" alt=\"Logo C\u00f3mo Cubrir un Cuerpo\" class=\"wp-image-6\" style=\"width:270px;height:auto\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/logo512.png 512w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/logo512-300x300.png 300w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/07\/logo512-150x150.png 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h1 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\"><strong>Base Pattern of the Straight Tailored Skirt<\/strong><\/h1>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/faldaSastreBlogTit-1024x576.png\" alt=\"Visual comparison of male and female morphology wearing a straight tailored skirt for geometric patternmaking study\" class=\"wp-image-3629\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/faldaSastreBlogTit-1024x576.png 1024w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/faldaSastreBlogTit-300x169.png 300w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/faldaSastreBlogTit-768x432.png 768w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/faldaSastreBlogTit.png 1080w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Essential Guide to Geometric Patternmaking with Full Demonstration Video<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_02-1024x576.png\" alt=\"Straight tailored skirt on mannequin, front, side and back views with front and back pattern pieces\" class=\"wp-image-3441\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_02-1024x576.png 1024w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_02-300x169.png 300w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_02-768x432.png 768w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_02-1536x864.png 1536w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_02-1320x743.png 1320w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_02.png 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">The straight tailored skirt is one of the foundations of geometric patternmaking. It represents the opposite of the circle skirt: while the circle skirt is built with radial lines, the tailored skirt is born from a structure that is strictly orthogonal to the vertical axis of the body.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_14-1024x576.png\" alt=\"Visual comparison of orthogonal straight tailored skirt and radial circle skirt on dress form\" class=\"wp-image-3494\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_14-1024x576.png 1024w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_14-300x169.png 300w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_14-768x432.png 768w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_14-1536x864.png 1536w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_14-2048x1152.png 2048w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_14-1320x743.png 1320w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\"><br>It is a clear, architectural and extremely precise system, essential in both men\u2019s and women\u2019s tailoring.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">In this guide you will find:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li class=\"text-justify\">The complete conceptual explanation<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">The required measurements and the logic behind them<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">The geometric structure of the draft<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">A morphological comparison between male and female bodies<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">And, of course, the complete step-by-step demonstration video<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_4cade7-0a .kt-block-spacer{height:60px;}.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_4cade7-0a .kt-divider{border-top-width:1px;height:1px;border-top-color:#eee;width:80%;border-top-style:solid;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-spacer aligncenter kt-block-spacer-3515_4cade7-0a\"><div class=\"kt-block-spacer kt-block-spacer-halign-center\"><hr class=\"kt-divider\"\/><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading text-justify has-medium-font-size\"><strong><strong>Contents<\/strong><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_01-1024x576.png\" alt=\"Straight tailored skirt on mannequin, front, side and back views\" class=\"wp-image-3436\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_01-1024x576.png 1024w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_01-300x169.png 300w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_01-768x432.png 768w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_01-1536x864.png 1536w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_01-1320x743.png 1320w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_01.png 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li class=\"text-justify\">What is the straight tailored skirt<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Required measurements and their logic<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Full drafting video<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Geometric structure of the pattern<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Morphology: male and female<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Principles of balance and ease<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Workshop tips<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Frequently asked questions<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Continue learning<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Patternmaker\u2019s tools<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_921cff-f4 .kt-block-spacer{height:60px;}.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_921cff-f4 .kt-divider{border-top-width:1px;height:1px;border-top-color:#eee;width:80%;border-top-style:solid;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-spacer aligncenter kt-block-spacer-3515_921cff-f4\"><div class=\"kt-block-spacer kt-block-spacer-halign-center\"><hr class=\"kt-divider\"\/><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading text-justify has-medium-font-size\"><strong>1. <strong>What is the straight tailored skirt<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">The straight tailored skirt is the base pattern that best represents the philosophy of geometric patternmaking. It is built upon:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Vertical and horizontal lines<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Clear axes<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Controlled proportions<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">A fast, clean and reproducible draft<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">Unlike the circle skirt \u2014where volume emerges from radius and arc\u2014 the tailored skirt begins at the position of the fourth lumbar vertebra, from which the entire structure is developed orthogonally.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">The result is an extremely stable pattern, firm and adaptable to any length or style.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_a86705-80 .kt-block-spacer{height:60px;}.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_a86705-80 .kt-divider{border-top-width:1px;height:1px;border-top-color:#eee;width:80%;border-top-style:solid;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-spacer aligncenter kt-block-spacer-3515_a86705-80\"><div class=\"kt-block-spacer kt-block-spacer-halign-center\"><hr class=\"kt-divider\"\/><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading text-justify has-medium-font-size\"><strong>2. <strong>Required measurements and why they are used<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_03-1024x576.png\" alt=\"Mannequin with waist, hip and crotch-depth lines alongside the front and back patterns of the straight tailored skirt\" class=\"wp-image-3446\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_03-1024x576.png 1024w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_03-300x169.png 300w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_03-768x432.png 768w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_03-1536x864.png 1536w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_03-1320x743.png 1320w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_03.png 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">For this pattern we only need four essential measurements:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">a) Waist girth<br>b) Hip girth<br>c) Hip length<br>d) Crotch rise<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">These measurements define:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li class=\"text-justify\">The true height of the waist plane<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">The natural hip line<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">The development of the crotch<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">The balance between front and back<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">The inclination of the side seam according to anatomy<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">The video explains in detail how to take each measurement and why each one corresponds to the real morphology of the body.<br><a href=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/en\/anatomy-body-measurements-pattern-making\/\">In the blog you will find direct links to the section on human body measurements, where the measurements are shown correctly.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_4d2fee-ac .kt-block-spacer{height:60px;}.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_4d2fee-ac .kt-divider{border-top-width:1px;height:1px;border-top-color:#eee;width:80%;border-top-style:solid;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-spacer aligncenter kt-block-spacer-3515_4d2fee-ac\"><div class=\"kt-block-spacer kt-block-spacer-halign-center\"><hr class=\"kt-divider\"\/><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading text-justify has-medium-font-size\"><strong>3. <strong>Full drafting video<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">In this video you will see:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li class=\"text-justify\">The complete draft from the waist down to the crotch line<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">The real application of ease and waist-shaping darts<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">The natural inclination of the waist plane<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">The simultaneous construction for male and female morphology<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">How to lengthen the pattern to any desired length<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">The visual demonstration is indispensable: nothing replaces watching the real-scale drawing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed aligncenter is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Base del patr\u00f3n de falda sastre recta | Trazado completo paso a paso\" width=\"720\" height=\"405\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/l8_XLECNTcQ?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_d4e293-62 .kt-block-spacer{height:60px;}.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_d4e293-62 .kt-divider{border-top-width:1px;height:1px;border-top-color:#eee;width:80%;border-top-style:solid;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-spacer aligncenter kt-block-spacer-3515_d4e293-62\"><div class=\"kt-block-spacer kt-block-spacer-halign-center\"><hr class=\"kt-divider\"\/><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading text-justify has-medium-font-size\"><strong>4. <strong>Geometric structure of the pattern<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_05-1024x576.png\" alt=\"Geometric structure of the base pattern for the straight tailored skirt\" class=\"wp-image-3451\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_05-1024x576.png 1024w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_05-300x169.png 300w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_05-768x432.png 768w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_05-1536x864.png 1536w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_05-2048x1152.png 2048w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_05-1320x743.png 1320w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">The pattern is built from a central vertical axis corresponding to half of the back.<br>From this axis, the main lines are organised:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading text-justify has-medium-font-size\"><strong>\u25b8 Waist line of the pattern<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_06-1024x576.png\" alt=\"Base pattern of the straight tailored skirt with the waistline highlighted in red\" class=\"wp-image-3458\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_06-1024x576.png 1024w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_06-300x169.png 300w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_06-768x432.png 768w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_06-1536x864.png 1536w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_06-1320x743.png 1320w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_06.png 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">This is the starting point of the draft.<br>It does not match the finished waistline of the pieces: it is a base line used to construct the true waistlines of front and back.<br>This line has a slight natural inclination that must be reproduced.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>\u25b8 Hip line<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_07-1-1024x576.png\" alt=\"Straight tailored skirt pattern with the hipline highlighted in red\" class=\"wp-image-3555\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_07-1-1024x576.png 1024w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_07-1-300x169.png 300w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_07-1-768x432.png 768w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_07-1-1536x864.png 1536w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_07-1-2048x1152.png 2048w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_07-1-1320x743.png 1320w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">Located exactly at the hip length measured from the fourth lumbar vertebra.<br>It is the most important measurement of the pattern, but it does not determine the finished garment\u2019s size.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading text-justify has-medium-font-size\"><strong>\u25b8 Crotch line<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_09-1024x576.png\" alt=\"Straight tailored skirt pattern with the inseam line highlighted in red\" class=\"wp-image-3471\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_09-1024x576.png 1024w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_09-300x169.png 300w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_09-768x432.png 768w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_09-1536x864.png 1536w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_09-2048x1152.png 2048w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_09-1320x743.png 1320w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">Defined by the crotch rise.<br>It marks the end of the first phase of the base draft before lengthening the skirt.<br>From this line downward, the straight skirt is extended with a rectangle perpendicular to the floor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading text-justify has-medium-font-size\"><strong>\u25b8 Centre-front line<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_10-1024x576.png\" alt=\"Straight tailored skirt pattern with the front-centre line highlighted in red\" class=\"wp-image-3478\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_10-1024x576.png 1024w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_10-300x169.png 300w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_10-768x432.png 768w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_10-1536x864.png 1536w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_10-1320x743.png 1320w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_10.png 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">Obtained by applying the hip girth plus the necessary ease.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading text-justify has-medium-font-size\"><strong>\u25b8 <\/strong>Side seam<\/h3>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_11-1024x576.png\" alt=\"Straight tailored skirt pattern with the side seam line highlighted in red\" class=\"wp-image-3483\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_11-1024x576.png 1024w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_11-300x169.png 300w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_11-768x432.png 768w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_11-1536x864.png 1536w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_11-2048x1152.png 2048w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_11-1320x743.png 1320w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">It is not symmetrical: it is shifted towards the front to compensate for gluteal volume.<br>This ensures the seam aligns with the true side of the leg.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-medium-font-size\"><strong>\u25b8 Darts<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_12-1024x576.png\" alt=\"Straight tailored skirt pattern with darts and shaping intakes highlighted in red\" class=\"wp-image-3488\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_12-1024x576.png 1024w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_12-300x169.png 300w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_12-768x432.png 768w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_12-1536x864.png 1536w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_12-1320x743.png 1320w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_12.png 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">They compensate for the difference between waist girth and hip girth.<br>Their distribution varies according to morphology.<br>They are explained in detail in the video.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_cc9e5d-c0 .kt-block-spacer{height:60px;}.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_cc9e5d-c0 .kt-divider{border-top-width:1px;height:1px;border-top-color:#eee;width:80%;border-top-style:solid;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-spacer aligncenter kt-block-spacer-3515_cc9e5d-c0\"><div class=\"kt-block-spacer kt-block-spacer-halign-center\"><hr class=\"kt-divider\"\/><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading text-justify has-medium-font-size\"><strong>5. <strong>Morphology<\/strong>: <strong>male vs female<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_04-1024x576.png\" alt=\"Male and female morphology comparison with measurements applied to the tailored skirt pattern\" class=\"wp-image-3431\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_04-1024x576.png 1024w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_04-300x169.png 300w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_04-768x432.png 768w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_04-1536x864.png 1536w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_04-1320x743.png 1320w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/FaSaRe_04.png 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">At the end of the video you will see an exceptional figure:<br>a hybrid body divided along the sagittal axis.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Left side: male morphology<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Right side: female morphology<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Both are equalised to 51 cm of half hip girth<ul><li>Male: size 50\/44<\/li><\/ul>\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Female: size 42N<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">This comparison allows you to observe simultaneously:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Changes in the inclination of the waist plane<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Different distributions of darts<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">The behaviour of the side seam in both bodies<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">A demonstration rarely found in traditional manuals.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_541782-2c .kt-block-spacer{height:60px;}.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_541782-2c .kt-divider{border-top-width:1px;height:1px;border-top-color:#eee;width:80%;border-top-style:solid;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-spacer aligncenter kt-block-spacer-3515_541782-2c\"><div class=\"kt-block-spacer kt-block-spacer-halign-center\"><hr class=\"kt-divider\"\/><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading text-justify has-medium-font-size\"><strong>6. <strong>Principles of balance and ease<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">A well-drafted tailored skirt must:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Fall straight without opening when walking<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Not rise to one side<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Sit down without resistance<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Keep the side seam aligned<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Avoid unwanted folds<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Not cling to the hips<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">To achieve this, controlled ease is applied.<br>Standard hip ease is:<br>1 cm in the pattern \u2014 that is, 2 cm in the finished garment.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_1b77e1-39 .kt-block-spacer{height:60px;}.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_1b77e1-39 .kt-divider{border-top-width:1px;height:1px;border-top-color:#eee;width:80%;border-top-style:solid;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-spacer aligncenter kt-block-spacer-3515_1b77e1-39\"><div class=\"kt-block-spacer kt-block-spacer-halign-center\"><hr class=\"kt-divider\"\/><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-medium-font-size\"><strong>7. <strong>Workshop tips<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Always measure the back leg length: it is the key reference.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">If the front dart marks, increase intake; if it pulls, reduce it.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">For the draft, add 1 cm to the half waist girth.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">For the waistband, use the real measurement, not the increased one.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">That small margin prevents small rolls of flesh from appearing under the waistband once the skirt is worn.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_776e72-a2 .kt-block-spacer{height:60px;}.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_776e72-a2 .kt-divider{border-top-width:1px;height:1px;border-top-color:#eee;width:80%;border-top-style:solid;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-spacer aligncenter kt-block-spacer-3515_776e72-a2\"><div class=\"kt-block-spacer kt-block-spacer-halign-center\"><hr class=\"kt-divider\"\/><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading text-justify has-medium-font-size\"><strong>8. <strong>Frequently asked questions<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\"><strong><strong>Is it a good base for a pencil skirt<\/strong>?<\/strong><br>Yes. A pencil skirt is obtained by reducing the hem width.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\"><strong><strong>How much ease does a classic tailored skirt have<\/strong>?<\/strong><br>1 cm in the pattern \u2192 2 cm real.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\"><strong><strong>Is it suitable for stretch fabrics<\/strong>?<\/strong><br>Yes, adjusting ease and removing darts. This will be covered in another post.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_fb5a3a-9b .kt-block-spacer{height:60px;}.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_fb5a3a-9b .kt-divider{border-top-width:1px;height:1px;border-top-color:#eee;width:80%;border-top-style:solid;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-spacer aligncenter kt-block-spacer-3515_fb5a3a-9b\"><div class=\"kt-block-spacer kt-block-spacer-halign-center\"><hr class=\"kt-divider\"\/><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading text-justify has-medium-font-size\"><strong>9. <strong>Continue learning<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">I recommend this order:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Circle skirt<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Reduced-flare circle skirt<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\"><strong>Straight tailored skirt<\/strong> (current post)<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_a1b071-a1 .kt-block-spacer{height:60px;}.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_a1b071-a1 .kt-divider{border-top-width:1px;height:1px;border-top-color:#eee;width:80%;border-top-style:solid;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-spacer aligncenter kt-block-spacer-3515_a1b071-a1\"><div class=\"kt-block-spacer kt-block-spacer-halign-center\"><hr class=\"kt-divider\"\/><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-medium-font-size\"><strong>10. <strong>Tools for the traditional and digital patternmaker<\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">Modern patternmaking combines the classic workshop with the digital environment.<br>These tools are essential:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading text-justify has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Computers<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Powerful laptops with good graphics<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Stable desktop computers for long sessions<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Adjustable stands for ergonomic posture<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Vector software<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Adobe Illustrator<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Affinity Designer<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Inkscape<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">CorelDRAW<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading text-justify has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Peripherals<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Vertical auxiliary screen<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Precision mouse<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Graphics tablet<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading text-justify has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Printing and cutting<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li class=\"text-justify\">A0 plotters<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">A3 printers for tiled layouts<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Kraft or continuous paper<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Rotary cutter + cutting mat<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading text-justify has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Workshop tools<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Tracing wheel<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Sleeve board<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Pattern weights<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Ruler, square and set square<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"text-justify\">Curve rulers<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_04763e-81 .kt-block-spacer{height:60px;}.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_04763e-81 .kt-divider{border-top-width:1px;height:1px;border-top-color:#eee;width:80%;border-top-style:solid;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-spacer aligncenter kt-block-spacer-3515_04763e-81\"><div class=\"kt-block-spacer kt-block-spacer-halign-center\"><hr class=\"kt-divider\"\/><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-medium-font-size\"><strong>Closing<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">The straight tailored skirt is one of the essential patterns of geometric patternmaking.<br>Its clean structure turns drafting into an exercise of precision and clarity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"text-justify\">If you found this content useful, watch the full video and continue exploring the next guides on the blog.<\/p>\n\n\n<style>.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_d25edb-79 .kt-block-spacer{height:60px;}.wp-block-kadence-spacer.kt-block-spacer-3515_d25edb-79 .kt-divider{border-top-width:1px;height:1px;border-top-color:#eee;width:80%;border-top-style:solid;}<\/style>\n<div class=\"wp-block-kadence-spacer aligncenter kt-block-spacer-3515_d25edb-79\"><div class=\"kt-block-spacer kt-block-spacer-halign-center\"><hr class=\"kt-divider\"\/><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-right\">You may also be interested in exploring the following related content:<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"alignright size-medium\"><a href=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/en\/grading-the-tailored-straight-skirt-how-to-understand-it-without-getting-lost\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"169\" src=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/BGR002_EN-300x169.png\" alt=\"Cover of the post \u201cGrading the Straight Tailored Skirt\u201d with black background and technical compass.\" class=\"wp-image-3682\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/BGR002_EN-300x169.png 300w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/BGR002_EN-1024x576.png 1024w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/BGR002_EN-768x432.png 768w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/BGR002_EN-1536x864.png 1536w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/BGR002_EN-2048x1152.png 2048w, https:\/\/tevipa.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/BGR002_EN-1320x743.png 1320w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Learn the complete logic behind the straight tailored skirt, one of the essential patterns in geometric patternmaking. This guide explains the required measurements, the structural principles of the draft, and the differences between male and female morphology, illustrated with a hybrid figure created specifically for this project. It includes a detailed drafting video, professional tips, and recommended tools for both workshop and digital patternmaking.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3529,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1012,607,1187],"tags":[596,155,483,447,259,1143,555,50,58],"class_list":["post-3515","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blog-en","category-pattern","category-skirt-pattern","tag-artisanaltailoring","tag-designer-en","tag-fashion","tag-fashiondesigner","tag-pattern-making","tag-skirt","tag-tailoring","tag-tele-virtual-patronage-en","tag-televirtualpatronage-en"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - 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