A natural-flare skirt is created by closing the darts in a tailored skirt block, transforming their volume into a gentle opening at the hem. The result is a fluid, balanced silhouette that remains clean and structured. It’s an easy, elegant transformation suitable for everyday skirts, formal garments and even bridal designs.
A clear and accessible introduction to the grading process of the straight tailored skirt. Learn how to interpret a measurement chart and how patterns change depending on male or female morphology. The full video demonstrates the method step by step.
Learn the complete logic behind the straight tailored skirt, one of the essential patterns in geometric patternmaking. This guide explains the required measurements, the structural principles of the draft, and the differences between male and female morphology, illustrated with a hybrid figure created specifically for this project. It includes a detailed drafting video, professional tips, and recommended tools for both workshop and digital patternmaking.
Geometric pattern making relies on simple shapes —circles, triangles, rectangles— to build garments with mathematical precision and a clear method.
In this article, learn how to calculate and draw a circle skirt using the gardener’s compass, from formulas and proportions to practical drafting.
Perfect for fashion students and professionals who value precision and method.
Fashion no longer dresses bodies —it organizes desires.
This TeleVirtualPatronage manifesto denounces the shift from craft to spectacle, from tailoring to algorithms, from body to number.
Bobo, the god-logo, mirrors the system’s sickness.
A pattern maker doesn’t judge: they measure and adapt. This article explores how pattern making translates the body into proportions and structures, showing eight possible morphologies from the crossing of internal and external structures. A technical act that is also respect for body diversity
Equality does not mean uniformity. This post examines the morphological differences between male and female bodies and their impact on pattern making
The two-piece body and one-piece sleeve pattern is the basis for garments like t-shirts and sweatshirts. We explain measurements, anatomical references and step-by-step drafting
This article explains how to measure the front bust height on the female body and how to calculate the vertical bust development, a key parameter in pattern making. The differences between front and back bust measurements define the body shape and help build balanced, accurate patterns
Originally published on March 4, 2013 The Academy of Ignorance 2 “More light!” J.W.Goethe, March 22, 1832 Introduction If anyone was surprised by the previous post (The Academy of Ignorance 1) or thought the story was exaggerated, today I will share…
